Ten words that change their meaning in Madrid

Here are 10 words that have a completely different meaning when you live in Madrid:

1. "Gazpacho"
Used to mean: A little used Spanish dish, noted for being served cold.
Now means: Heaven.

2. "A regular job"
Used to mean: 30 - 40 hours each week located in the same office or classroom.
Now means: Travelling to obscure parts of Madrid, and varies between 9 hours and (often) zero hours, when a cancellation or puente takes place.

3. "Invite"
Used to mean: A nice present or entry to a party.
Now means: A sign that you are going to leave a particular bar legless - you have been "invited" by the bar owner to another drink.

4. "Sol"
Used to mean: The big yellow thing in the sky.
Now means: The epi-centre of heaving humanity in the central area of Madrid that any sane person strives to avoid.

5. "Morning"
Used to mean: Sometime before noon, often 9 or 10 o'clock.
Now means: Sometime before 3pm.

6. "Coffee bar"
Used to mean: A place people went to drink coffee
Now means: A place you still go to drink coffee, but watch other people drinking brandy, anis, beer etc. At 9 o'clock in the flipping morning..

7. "Seasons"
Used to mean: 4 seasons.
Now means: It's either winter or summer.

8. "Vegetarian"
Used to mean: No meat involved.
Now means: Contains ham.

9. "Do you want something to eat?"
Used to mean: Do you want something to eat?
Now means: Do you want to pay extra for a big plate of something? (we'll still give you a tapa of something to eat)

10. "Rush hour"
Used to mean: Those two times a day when public transport gets packed, and streets are full of people rushing everywhere.
Now means: Five or six times a day when public transport gets packed, and streets are full of people not rushing everywhere

Madrid syndrome

When you've lived and worked in Madrid for a while, you tend to develop what I call "Madrid syndrome". There are various symptoms, and I list some them here:

i) Wearing a jacket or pullover even when the daily high reaches 25C

ii) Feeling disappointed when ordering a beer or wine, and only getting olives or crisps as a free snack

iii) Going for lunch at 3pm and thinking it unexceptional.

iv) Feeling sorry that anyone has to live in Barcelona.

v) Realising you just don't watch television any more. Even if you had the time, you wouldn't.

vi) Feeling some kind of strange pride that the tap water is far better than in the home town.

vii) Thinking that Madrid has the best in most things, including potato crisps and imported sea-food.

viii) Using the word "Sol" to describe a district, and expecting others to understand.

ix) Thinking breakfast consists of a coffee, with perhaps a specialised doughnut (churros) on the side.

x) Getting annoyed that one night a week the bins aren't emptied.

Is there a cure? I suspect not...

Flamenco book night in OffSide

Earlier this week we were privileged to have the English author Cherry Radford come over to Madrid and present her latest book "Flamenco Baby". Cherry's books are inspired by dance and music, and she also has a new book in progress, "Bailamos!" which should hit the shelves later this year.
It was certainly not as crowded as the Kurdish literature night last week (almost as if the English-speaking community are the least interested community in culture here in Madrid), but those that attended were treated to a fascinating presentation; Cherry explained the influences and desires that took her into writing on dance-related themes.
For me and certain people in the audience, the most interesting part was when Cherry explained certain elements of getting one's books published, and also the means of getting endorsements from famous celebrities that can make a big difference to book sales. For anyone who's got the desire to write a book, and wants to get their work published, a book presentation night like this with a published author should have been an absolute must. Some great conversation over wine afterwards with the author and special guests, so it was definitely an enjoyable as well an informative night.
One other bonus from the night was that we now have 20% discount cards in the bookshop for the acclaimed flamenco venue Cardamomo when anyone buys "Flamenco Baby" - if people take the dinner option they'll actually save more than the cost of the book!

Large turnout for a Kurdish literature event in Madrid

We recently had a very successful book presentation take place in our bookshop.
It was not our normal target audience, indeed it was aimed at a small (for Spain) niche; we hosted a "night of Kurdish literature". In terms of numbers attending it was probably our most successful night (although the opening launch night with Sid Lowe was also a crowd puller), and additionally many great contacts were made that should lead to future ventures.
So why did this event draw so many people? I think one important reason is that there was a community (Kurds in Madrid, and indeed in Spain) that appreciated the chance to access books on their culture in Spanish, and we were able to get the help of Kurdish people and friends in spreading the word about the event.
It also helped that we had such good guests to do the presentations. Yashmina Shawki is an established writer, historian and analyst on Kurdish and also Middle East affairs, and it was illuminating listening to the background behind her novel "Kurdos, destino libertad". Equally it was fascinating listening to the two translators (Pepa Baamonde and Irfan Guler ) explain the importance and background of the influential Kurdish poet Ahmed Arif, whose book they presented “Desgaste cadenas añorándote” ("Shackles worn out by longing").
Lastly, it has to be said that the organisation KRG (the Kurdish regional government in Spain) did an excellent job in promoting the event, and in so doing raised awareness of Kurdish writers within Spain.
Of course, as always on these nights, we did our best in the bookshop to ensure everyone was able to realax and enjoy the night with free refreshments and nibbles, - and we were very grateful to the donation of pinchos and mezzes made by the owners of MOD restaurant (on calle Orense 22, near Nuevos Ministerios). Nevertheless the biggest factor that drew the crowds (in my opinion) is that getting someone to collaborate and help with publicity and Press Releases (as the KRG did) is invaluable for this type of event. Much as I am a fan of social media, it's still supremely important to use traditional methods - face-to-face contact, press releases, personal networking etc when publicising an event.

Peaked...

We've had some great book presentations already in our Madrid bookshop - but Monday's event probably surpassed them all. Guillem Balague, the Sky Sports presenter and As columnist, was in town to promote his authorised book on Messi. Although OffSide Books helped to organise this, the actual presentation was held in the CloverHouse pub, in northern Madrid, who provided superb hospitality.
I believe that if you ask anyone who attended, they'll honestly tell you it was an amazing event. Guillem really knows his subject, and switched effortlessly between English and Spanish. Moreover, he stayed around for hours after the actual presentation, to chat with the guests. It's a cliche, but if you're in Madrid yet failed to come to this event, you missed out big-time. I can't wait now for his next book (I'm currently reading the English version of "Messi"); he told us on the night what the next subject will be. But that, I'm afraid, will be our little secret! ;)

Muchas Gracias Richard Baxell !!

On April 30 I was very fortunate to have Richard Baxell in the bookshop, presenting his book "Unlikely Warriors", about the British and Irish volunteers in the Spanish Civil War. Richard is an acknowledged academic and expert on this part of Spain's history, and his talk was universally described by those who attended as brilliant. From a personal view I was captivated by his knowledge of the volunteers' background at the time. It turns out that most volunteers were not the writers and journalists we assume, but people from working class backgrounds in Glasgow, Liverpool, Ireland and Wales, often with poor diet and health yet with a hunger not just to oppose fascism but also to educate themselves.

Perhaps I should say I was doubly fortunate to have hosted this event, as the book itself is a gem. I won't go into a full book review here - I'm certain I could not do it justice - but I will link to an excellent review by the writer and Spanish Civil War nerd (in her words) Caroline Angus Baker. Caroline summarises the book as follows:

"Baxell has created a book where those new to the subject can learn and understand, but at the same time, give more knowledgeable readers a more personal and vulnerable perspective to the battles. Many books on the war can read as stiff or academic, but Baxell has created a marvellous account which humanises but does not romanticise the role of international volunteers in a complex war. The book breaks down the struggles in Spain, to give a realistic account of what life was like for those who sacrificed for a cause which did not succeed in victory. Unlikely Warriors is a must-read for anyone interested in Spain and its recent history."

We do have other events coming up in the near future, for example "An Evening with Guillem Balague" on May 12 (the venue is in the Clover House pub, calle Almansa, in north Madrid), but if I were to meet with the proverbial bus tomorrow, I can honestly say that the Richard Baxell book presentation was the highlight of my year (well decade). Many thanks, Richard Baxell!

Terrace life

It's meant to be one of the attractions of living and working in a sunny country. Eating and drinking out on a terrace (terraza). I'm one of those who doesn't find it such a draw. You're charged more (mainly because the council taxes bars and restaurants) and you're less likely to get a free snack with your drink. But there's no doubt it appeals to many - on a sunny afternoon you can see packed terrazas all over Madrid.

Impressed by the competition

I mentioned in my last post that a book chain Tikbooks, were opening a new store close to mine, just off plaza Santo Domingo
I've already stated that they shouldn't have much of an effect on my business. I do things, like new books and book presentations, that they don't. However we do overlap as regards budget books and sales of books via the web.
Since finding out about their new store I've done a little research and dug out this article (in Spanish).
Apparently the business, was started by an Argentinian, Fabio Snaider, here in Spain, and he launched the business with just 500 books (at that time he just sold books via the internet). He now boasts of 6 stores in Madrid (the new one will make 7) and has over 70,000 books available online, so it's getting to be quite a large operation. The most impressive part is that all the books in-store cost a maximum of 2 euros 90 (and 5 books sell for 10 euros), which is very cheap even for second hand books in Madrid.
I can only say I'm impressed with how his business has expanded, and expect to see more Tikbooks outlets open up in Madrid (and perhaps in other parts of Spain).

Gripes and grumbles

Even when the sun shines, things happen that can darken one's mood. As vaguely mentioned in a previous post, one of the more difficult tasks can be to get publishers to sell their books to smaller concerns such as mine, even though I pay up front on a proforma basis.
It becomes more difficult when the person you're dealing with, suddenly goes off on holiday, and the first thing you hear about it is an "out of office" warning via email. This has now happened to me twice over the last weekend, once from a UK based publisher, and once from one based in Catalonia. In neither case did they give me warning this was about to happen, so I could shift the negotiation to someone else. Luckily, in one case, the books required were for a book presentation that has been delayed, but it could have proven very damaging to my business.
Another thing happened this weekend that at first glance was bad news for my bookshop. The discount chain TikBooks has taken over premises on the top of San Bernando street close to Plaza Santo Domingo ie close to my bookshop. These are discount book retailers and sometimes have a stock of books in other languages - all their books retail at 2,90 euros, and can often produce some gems.
But to be quite honest, I don't see them as a threat, more of an opportunity. They will bring more book browsers to the area, and hopefully I can encourage some of them to also pop in my store. Where incidentally I have a lot of books retailing at 1 or 2 euros, even though many others are of high quality and obviously command higher prices.
Additionally, we have big names in the pipeline to bring to Madrid for book presentations - please watch this space. So long as we can get the publishers to sell us their books, of course!

5 reasons to give Amazon a miss.

For various reasons, Amazon does not get a lot of praise from independent booksellers. It's not just they can offer books at big discounts (by pressurising publishers into giving bigger discounts), it's the fact they seemingly get away without paying an equal rate of tax to the rest of us.
Yet to be quite frank, I don't have too many problems with Amazon. They are an established fact, and if they didn't exist another online operator would no doubt take their place. Besides which I do use Amazon myself on occasion, both to sell and source books. I can't go into detail, but I find one or two larger publishers a bigger pain, and I suspect other booksellers would (privately) agree with me. Luckily there are publishers who are efficient and amenable to selling their books at a decent discount, even if some make it as difficult as they can..

Even so, and for obvious reasons, I do try and encourage book buyers to use independent bookshops, and for the following reasons:

1. Independent bookshops are often more flexible than you realise. If you see a second hand book in my store, and you see the same book of a similar condition cheaper on Amazon (taking into account the postage fee) then make me an offer. I'll probably accept it. So the argument that Amazon is cheaper is wrong, in that case!
2. We often have gift deals in the local vicinity you don't get from Amazon. For instance currently we are running a free pint deal for every book purchased in the store. In short: we give you free beer - Amazon doesn't! A no-brainer, surely!
3. You can examine physically books in-store, but have to accept the descriptions given on Amazon. What is "Acceptable" to some may not be to other people. And there are recorded cases of books being ordered online that never reach their destination. Do you trust the postage service 100% for that essential book?
4. It's easier to come across unrelated gems in a bookstore. This is despite the "recommended for you" algorithm that online sellers use - well perhaps I should say "because of" that algorithm.
5. We can organise book presentations and book-signing events in-store, or even in bigger venues locally. If you want to meet writers, pressure your local bookstore to get them along. Amazon won't do this for you either. And talking of book-signings, we hope to announce soon some big names coming to Madrid, courtesey of OffSide Books. Keep an eye on our website and/or Twitter feed.

Of course, I'm sure other people can give more reasons why you shouldn't use Amazon, and still others can tell us why you should. Just please remember we as independent booksellers are here to give you more. Try us once to see how we do just that!

Secrets of Chinese business success in Spain

Last week it was announced that China’s richest man, Wang Jianli, was in negotiations to buy the iconic building in Madrid, the Edificio España, located in the Plaza de España and at one end of the Gran Via. According to ThinkSpain.com Wang Jianli's company specialises in luxury hotels and élite shopping centres, meaning his purchase of the Edificio España could 'turn around' the area completely.

Now my bookshop is located close to this area, and I can tell you there are a lot of Chinese businesses already there. As well as the ubiquitous bazaars and alimentacions (corner food shops) they have restaurants, beauty saloons, supermarkets and even driver schools for Chinese speakers in the area. This is not something unique to this part of town, nor to Madrid. It’s been noted for many years that the Chinese community are building up their own businesses all over Spain. There have been articles and research into how they manage to succeed in such a hard business climate. Perhaps one of the best articles I’ve read is this one, that gives the “10 Chinese commandments for entrepreneurs”. The full article is in Spanish, but I will list the “commandments” here in English, because I think they make good points. I have to admit I don’t comply with some of their guidelines, but this is a list I refer to often...

1. Choose a good premises, in a good location, but at a cheap price. Good advice if you can find such a property.

2. Start to go into business at an age as young as possible. No idea if this is good advice or not.

3. Don't become emotionally attached to the business. If it doesn't work, change your line of work. -makes a lot of sense

4. Competition is healthy. Yes, you can learn from your competitors. Just don't take too much personally.

5. Don't stick with just one business, lest you become a slave to it. Again, seems like very good advice. I do diversify into more than just bookselling, but that's partly because I have to!

6 If hiring workers, better to hire Chinese people. This point could inflame some people, I suspect. If hiring directly I personally would go for bi-lingual staff, because that's what my business needs.

7 Never ask the bank for a loan. Better to ask friends or family, in order to avoid paying interest. I think most of us can understand where this is coming from...

8 When your sector becomes saturated, look for another. Seek out new business opportunities. Sound advice, I would have thought, and something I'm always looking into...

9 Give your customer what they need, even if you don't understand why. Basically listen to what your customer wants - it can lead to a new revenue stream.

10 Work and hoard money for several years even if it means living a pauper's life. This is probably the main area I fail. I have to keep networking with certain people here in Madrid, and if I lived a hermit's existence I would have missed out already on certain opportunities. I prefer the slogan "moderation in all things" not that I achieve that either!

The summary is that I have a lot to learn from Chinese business practices, even if I feel that one or two of the "commandments" don't apply to my bookstore. And if the sale of the Edificio España goes ahead, I expect to see this part of Madrid change a lot.

7 things I do in Spain that I wouldn't do in England.

There are certain things I've ended up doing here in Madrid, Spain, that I wouldn't do back in England. As always, this is not a comprehensive list, just those things my decaying mind can remember at this point in time...

1. Take a morning coffee in a local bar on the way to work (often with toast or churros). This is partly to get my brain listening to Spanish (apart from the bar talk the television will broadcast the news). But also because it's inexpensive here - 2 euros will cover coffee and the breakfast item. I really couldn't afford to do this back home.

2. Tip beggars with 20 or 25 cents. Firstly, because I'd probably get insulted if I gave such small amounts in the UK. Secondly because I always feel that the UK benefits system is meant to be more comprehensive, so there is less excuse for people to fall through the net. I have to admit though, I'm beginning to wonder if I'm totally mistaken on this.

3. Drink a small beer (known as a caña). It's perfectly acceptable to have a small beer here - and you still generally receive a free snack with it. The atmosphere in British pubs is such that I actually feel uncomfortable if I have just a half pint.

4. Throw used napkins or chicken legs on the floor once used up.

5. The two kisses thing when being introduced to Spanish women. Although it's something I'm still uncomfortable with. Likewise the affectionate embrace with male friends. These people are way too tactile!

6. Stand talking to someone who's only 4 inches from your face. People here are far more comfortable standing close to each other, than we are in England.

7. Advertise my services (in my case the bookshop and English lessons) on lamp-posts! Even in the internet age it's still the case here that the best way to advertise directly is via flyers on street furniture. Part of the reason is that you get a lot of sunny days and so the advert isn't washed away so quickly. It's still a surprise to see someone advertising their 400k house in this way though.

Giving a little bit extra in Spain

I've thought for some time now, that the Spanish tourist authorities should use the strapline "Spain - where we like to give you a little extra". It could be the free snack or tapa with your drink, or the wrapping service that comes when you buy a gift, as many service businesses in Spain like to compete by offering a little extra.
It's something that I think about all the time, as regards persuading people to come into the bookstore, rather than just ordering books online (we also sell via Amazon marketplace). We've had a free Mince Pie promotion before Christmas, and also free posters.
Currently we give away free book bags (some of which are from Daunt Books in London) when people spend 10 euros or more in the shop. So far the reaction has been very good when this has happened, and customers have promised to come back to the store. Whether they do or not obviously remains to be seen.
I intend to have a new promotion later this week, that will stagger other bookshops in this city. I can't release more information at this point (as competitors may try and jump in and spoil the promotion, or the co-operating party pulls out) but it will be available to anyone buying books in the store, even the 1 euro bargain books. Watch this space!

14 signs that indicate you are now living in 2014.

Right, this entry is not specific to bookshop owners, nor to anyone living in Madrid, but it may seem very familiar to some readers.
Some signs that highlight you are now living in 2014.

1. You know someone who's just on the edge of making it big with their start-up. But they never quite get that important traction...

2. Despite many people having it tough/losing their job, fancy cake and pastry shops are opening up everywhere.

3. We're constantly told it's good to fail. Just as well then...

4. You're annoyed about all the propaganda about Bitcoin. Let us work out how to cope with real money first...

5. The journey to the airport often costs more than the flight itself.

6. No-one pretends to have a "proper job" anymore.

7. You have given up trying to get Stephen Fry (or some other celebrity) to notice you on Twitter.

8. You sometimes glance at a newspaper article on the web, but you don't know anyone who buys a paper copy anymore. Unless they are going on holiday. There you go, newspaper publishers - if we get more holidays, you sell more papers!

9. If you do know someone in a job, it's in a role that didn't exist a few years back eg Cloud Services manager, Imagineer, UX designer etc.

10. Still no hoverpacks

11. We all secretly hope someone like Sherlock Holmes or Doctor Who exists, so they can sort out the mess we create.

12. Rail travel is getting ever more faster. Air travel not so, especially with the demise of Concorde.

13. They still haven't cracked self service tills in supermarkets and you prefer to be dealt with by an attendant.

14. The media appear to have stopped worrying about Peak Oil. But Climate Change (nee Climate Warming) is as big as ever.

Shops going up, or going down...

Although the bookshop has only been going since the autumn, I personally have gotten to know Madrid on and off for over 20 years.
The other day I realised that I didn't know where the nearest copy shop was. I'm sure a few still exist, but I suspect most have been rendered obsolete by the availability of cheap printers and (more recently) the ability of smart phones and tablets to take photographs.
At a later point I intend to write an article listing the shops that have disappeared and those that have taken their place. Today however I will produce a quick "Going Up" and "Going Down" summary of shops in Madrid.

Going UP:
Fancy baking shops selling cup cakes or tarts - these shops are mushrooming everywhere (forgive the pun)
"GrowShops" - I'm not really sure how these places are legal, if indeed they are.
Gifts and ornaments for pets - It seems there are pet lovers here, despite Spain's reputation.
Retro and second-hand clothing shops - No-one likes the term second-hand though.
Ham products - Seriously, there are shops selling ham rolls, ham pies etc. Not sure how they can compete with the bars who serve the same thing...

Going DOWN:
Internet shops/cafes - Since so many places offer free wi-fi, not much custom left for the dedicated internet cafe, although they still exist.
Book shops - Yes we're under threat, please support your local independent bookstore! But there have been new bookstores open in Madrid, and according to this article bookreading is experiencing a revival in Spain.
Copy shops - these were once huge in Madrid.
Travel shops - Yes, our young friend the internet...
Newspaper kiosks/shops - And again the web effect. Not that all have closed, but I do wonder how the existing ones keep going. I'm sure I've missed something here, so will no doubt come and edit accordingly. Meanwhile please look at the picture below of books...don't let them die out! ;)

The curious case of the disappearing cats

A few months ago, a cat disappeared from another second-hand English bookshop in Madrid (the store in question Petras, is only 5 minutes from OffSide).
This case was discussed on the MadridMan forum here, but no conclusion was ever made, and the cat was not re-found.
At the time I thought this may have been a kidnapping carried out by someone with a grudge. But now it transpires that another cat in the neighbourhood has also gone missing. The owners have put up a poster asking for help in retrieving the cat.
In both cases the cats were normal tabby cats.
Why would anyone go around stealing tabby cats?

14 things I have learnt so far from opening a bookshop in Spain.

The idea for this entry came from this article, that published such gems as

Most people think every old book is worth a lot of money. The same is true of signed copies and 1st editions. There's no need to tell them they're probably not ensuring financial security for their grandkids with that signed Patricia Cornwell they have at home.

So, although I'm only a few months into running my Madrid bookshop, here are some interesting findings that I've uncovered:

1. The books that sell the best are neither one euro second hand books, nor the glossy new books. Good quality mid-range second hand books (particularly coffee table books) attract people's attention.
2. A lot of people you know who stress they'll pop in your shop one day, never do. Luckily many who never promise to do so, do actually turn up.
3. It's sometimes worth buying books from people who are moving away. But only buy a small amount and then point out you can't afford any more. Often the seller will then give you the rest of the books to get rid of them.
4. If you start selling books online, you will have to check your listings every day. Big operators with 2 million+ listings (whether they actually possess that many is debateable) will attack you with the "penny-undercut" almost straight away. They probably use computer programs to do this, so don't take it personally!
5. Keep asking local business people for advice and feedback. But don't assume their advice will always be appropriate, even though 70% will be of top quality. For instance, I was advised by a top business guru here to write a blog - the one you're reading now. It's been great for publicity.
6. Selling books in the store will not pay the bills by itself. You need to either run a bar, sell books via the web, host events or fit in extra work eg teaching English or editing documents. Or all of those!
7. There will be good days (normally events) when you can have sales of several hundred euros. Other days you will sell nothing in the shop. Those unfortunately are more frequent. Budget accordingly.
8. It can be fairly cold in winter even in Spain. This is not helped by long periods of remaining seated. Warm clothing and regular exercise are needed.
9. The Spanish seem to respect books more than the Brits - their second hand books are normally in far better condition. You see plenty of book readers on the Madrid Metro still, which is an encouraging sign.
10. You need some great friends and family to give you support and help in sourcing books etc.
11. Unless you hire staff you will need to follow the Spanish tradition of closing for a couple of hours in the afternoon. Not just so you can have a decent meal and relax - you may need to go on shopping or fact-finding missions.
12. Keep active on both Twitter and Facebook. I've found them very useful in making contacts and publicising the bookshop.
13. You will never have time to read books in the bookshop itself. So probably a good idea to keep some books at home.
14. Always check through pages of books that are offered for sale or donated. One book turned up with pot plant leaves inside - and although I've yet to find a bank note, I'm assured it will happen eventually! ;)

Autonomo fees - An unpopular view

It's rare to read a guiri/expat blog about working in Spain, without the invariable whinge about the autonomo costs that self-employed people have to pay. Often the cost (close to 300 euros monthly) is compared to the low cost of national insurance contributions required by the self-employed in say the UK. It's also portrayed as being unfair because people have to pay the full whack whether they are making a profit or not, and regardless of monthly fluctuations.
I'm one of the few (perhaps the only one?) who thinks these complaints are misplaced, and that in fact there are far more important things in Spain that need to be addressed to help foster the growth in self-employed businesses.
Firstly, there are schemes that now allow a new autonomo to start off on a reduced rate - and the government is apparently bringing in further measures to help new businesses.
Secondly, the autonomo fee can be written off as an expense against revenue, thus reducing the total tax due to be paid.
Lastly, and the British critics always omit this point, you will save a lot more money (if you rent business premises, for example a shop or offices) compared to the UK in terms of commercial rent and especially business rates.
Now I realise that the last point only applies to those who rent business property. Those who don't, for example English teachers or freelance programmers, don't make that saving - or perhaps I should describe it as "not having to fork out on business rent each month". And perhaps more importantly, many starting out may choose to work black if they don't need premises, as they wait until they achieve a reasonable turnover, although that's obviously not a course of action that I can endorse.
Nevertheless, I feel that the real barriers to making a success of a business here are the high levels of VAT/IVA (21% in many cases) and a somewhat depressed internal market. Of course some businesses are not affected by this - books carry a IVA rate of just 4% and the teaching game can get away with 0%. The internal economy may not matter too much to an estate agent whose main clients come from overseas. From my point of view the autonomo system as it stands is bottom of the list of things I'd change to help businesses in this country.

Giving something back

One thing that concerns me in today's society is that there is very little chance of people "left behind" getting back into regular employment. I saw this a lot in the UK, with the rise of food banks and the like, and indeed one reason I've embarked on the bookshop business is because I found myself with very little option of finding work. It's no better in Spain, and despite the packed bars and busy shopping streets in Madrid, there are large numbers of people who have been left behind with no realistic chance of getting work.
One group that has been set up to try and help the jobless and/or homeless is called ServeTheCity. It basically looks for people working/living in Madrid to use their free time to help those less fortunate than themselves. I cannot guarantee that my own business can survive the coming months or years - although I am exploring every avenue to encourage people to use my bookshop. Nevertheless, so long as the Blogger service is up and this blog is running, (hopefully) people will read this entry, and if they are based in Madrid and have some free time to give, they can give something back to the city. Please share the site for ServeTheCity with anyone you know who lives/works in Madrid.

Serve the City is a movement of volunteers serving cities in practical ways & inspiring people to be “givers” in this world. We believe that many people doing small things together can make a big difference in our world. With this initiative we want to show that we believe in making Madrid a better place to live!

The Invitation.

There is a hidden danger that many people who live and work in Madrid have to deal with on a regular basis. It can strike without warning, and the consequences, particularly on the following morning, can be dire. It's known as the Invitation...
It may not be the healthiest lifestyle, but I've gotten into the habit, 2 or 3 times a week, of popping into a bar on my way home at night. For the price of a small beer or wine, I'll be given a free snack/aperitivo, the chance to relax and sometimes practice my Spanish with the other people in the bar.
That in itself is probably not too harmful, but the danger is when a second drink is ordered, or perhaps a whisky or gin "for the road". Because you then run the risk of the invitation. It's quite common for bar-owners here to reward a regular customer by inviting them to another drink when they are just about to leave. It's obviously a cost-effective way of building up a loyal customer base, and means the bar appears busy for a little longer - it's often the case that busy bars and restaurants attract more customers easier if they are already seen to be popular.
In the last week or so I've been "invited" to a last drink twice, which is an indication that perhaps I'm indulging a shade too much. It's also meant I've been sluggish in the mornings, so I now need to cut my drinking down. Not a lot, I believe in moderation. ;) Until the next invitation...
Meanwhile in the bookshop or on the web, the one book that sells as soon as I get a copy, is "la Ladrona de libros" (The Book Thief). Next time I wrangle a 2nd hand version I'll keep it to myself for a while, I want to read it in tandem with the English version. On one of the nights I'm not bar-hopping, of course..

Sad news

It came as a shock today to hear of the demise of Paco de Lucia, held by many as the world's greatest guitarist, and a legend n Flamenco circles. Paco de Lucia died at the age of 66 of a heart attack whilst on a family holiday in Mexico, and will be sorely missed by music lovers.
Here is an example of some of his guitar work.

The awkward squad...

It doesn't matter which town, city or country I am in, when I need to use a bank or post office I'll end up behind the awkward squad. You know the type - they can't go there to do straight-forward tasks like I do, such as sending a parcel to another town, or stopping a direct debit.
No, the majority of people always seem to need complex transactions carrying out, that take an inordinate amount of time. Perhaps it involves sending a package to an institution in Latvia, but taking an item there to forward onto a charity in Botswana. Or perhaps paying a bill in Mongolia and releasing payment 15% every 3rd Saturday in months with an "R" in it.
Yes, I've just spent half a hour of my time at a local Correos (post office) in order to send some books. Needless to say, my transaction only took a minute. When the number of sales allow it, I will open a contract and thankfully get the courier people to collect from my shop.
No matter how often I pray to the God of "the law of averages" the people in front of me in such places always have highly complex tasks to complete. Why can't more customers in these establishments be more simple - like me? "Rant Over"

An enjoyable trip...

For various reasons, I had to neglect the bookshop for a couple of days last week, as I made a trip to London.
The trip was very enjoyable, I picked up quite a few "new" second hand books for the shop, and enjoyed 2 sunny days - which was apparently quite exceptional for London. Really quite nice to see the daffodils out and blossom appearing on trees, and although certain prices were shocking, all in all the short holiday was very worthwhile.
However all good things come to an end, and I was soon back in the normal bookshop habitat in central Madrid. The short holiday has left me feeling a little tired, and there was quite a bit of catching up and arranging to do in the shop. Worryingly, I got annoyed when potential customers came in, as purchases meant more work and logging stock movements. So the plan for tomorrow is to be more welcoming and friendly to anyone who enters the doors. Promise! In the meantime pictures of some of the "new" stock.

Giving that little bit extra...

It's a tough market out there, and independent shops and bars have a big battle on their hands, competing not just against web operators but also against chains that can negotiate big discounts with suppliers and so constantly undercut on price. A friend of mine who opened up a wine/tapas bar told me that certain chain bars were selling beers at below the cost he pays to stock them. In his case he attracts loyal customers by offering a unique range of premium beers and wines, and by making sure that the free snacks (or aperitivos) keep flowing.
The offering of a free snack with a drink has been commonplace for many years in Madrid's bars and tavernas, and the extra competition in the marketplace now means some places even give a free plate of paella, or a dish of soup/stew with drinks. I've noticed also that certain shops are now giving free gifts or enticements to paying customers, as well as offering one-off discounts to get customers in the shop. It's certainly something I'm trying to do in the bookshop. I charge a little less per book when selling with Amazon marketplace as the buyer then has the postage charge on top. So in the bookshop we have a current offer of a free poster when customers spend 12 euros or more. I'm also thinking of introducing more gifts for paying customers, but this will take some thinking - what would appeal most to paying customers?
Incidentally. the most interesting point about the bookshop's customers this month, is that they have been mainly Spanish speakers (in fact all the web customers have had Spanish names). Something more for yours truly to ponder upon...are the Spanish more likely to buy from small, local operators than American and British expats?

Missing something?

This is a question that often comes up of Brits working/living abroad - what do you miss from Blighty? Sometimes the answer is a certain manufactured British foodstuff like Marmite, tea-bags or baked beans, although to be honest these goods are easier to get and are now even in some supermarkets. I can't say I miss much British food. I may indulge in a sausage roll or pork pie when I head back to England, but there is certainly no shortage of pork products available here in Madrid. Missing a good curry - well no, there are good places to get curry now in Madrid, even though the price can be a little steep.
Of course I wish I could see family members and the better-half more often, but that's often the case when people work away in the UK. It's not even the case of missing banter or good conversation, as there is a decent sized expat community you can meet up with in Madrid, often down the Irish pub.
Do I miss the constant rain and long periods without the sun back home? What do you think? No, but one thing I do miss, and it's a strange choice, is fitted carpets. I know there is the hygiene question and perhaps they are not suited to a continental climate. I realise also that rugs can be bought here. But I still miss the fitted carpet effect, especially on a cold winter's morning!
There are of course other things I miss from back home - public parks in the UK are fantastic, and although there are some here in Madrid I still prefer those back home. Plus pubs that have live free music - there are a few in Madrid, but again the choice is far better back home. Having said all that, there are very few things that I really miss, especially now we have all the internet has to offer. As I posted on an earlier thread, I don't even miss British television - I don't have time to watch it! Even more to the point - I don't lack reading material either - I have literally thousands of English books to browse through in my Madrid shop. :)

If I were X.

Yesterday wasn't such a bad day; there were various visitors to the shop at different times, and the feedback from the internet wasn't bad either. Today however looks like being a bit quieter, and at these times I start to wonder what famous business people would do in my shoes in order to improve sales in the bookshop.

For example "If I were Michael O'leary (of Ryanair fame)" perhaps I'd sell books at a cent each, but charge for the cover...

"If I were Florentino Perez (big spending president of Real Madrid)" I'd pay to get JK Rowling or Stephen King to attend a bookselling event...

"If I were Lord Alan Sugar" I'd run a weekly competition in the shop, and tell a new person each week "You're Fired!"

What would you do?

The colour of money.

Sometimes I get the impression that people place different values on certain things here in Spain. Yesterday I bought a ham bocadillo (similar to baguette) for the very reasonable price of 2,50 euros. That price is lower than some around here, and the seller had decided to skimp a little. But instead of cutting back on the expensive ingredient, the ham, he had skimped on the bread instead. You often notice, even in the best establishments, that when you go for a Menu del Dia, that there is a distinct shortage of salt pots or oil jars. Where possible you are expected to re-use your knife and fork for the second course - I can't see major savings in the dishwasher with 10 fewer bits of cultlery, but there you go.
Another cost-saving feature is the lights in the washroom. There is normally a timer cut-out, so you have to be careful if you spend too long on a call of nature as you can end up sitting in the dark, looking around for the switch. I suppose it's an efficient way of saving energy, but it does take some getting used to.
I have to stress here that I'm not claiming to be in any way a better judge of business sense - I realise I have a lot to learn. I'm still wondering whether I made a mistake yesterday. An elderly lady came into Offside Books looking for a second hand book in French. The only ones I could see were travel guides, which were hardly what she was looking for. However I did find a children's book of fables (in French) in the one euro category, and in a fit of genorosity I decided to offer it as a gift (un regalo). Now of course one euro doesn't really mean a lot, but the lady was very appreciative, and spent a few minutes thanking me and wishing the shop lots of luck. Which is exactly what we need if I give any more books away! ;) So if you're in Madrid pop down to our store on Torija 8 (near plaza Santo Domingo) and see if you can wrangle yourself a bargain - I'm obviously a soft touch!

Wake up and smell the coffee...

If there is one thing that defines life in Spain, it's not flamenco, it's not tapas, it's not even the passion for La Liga although many do possess this attribute. It's the need to take a coffee in the morning. It may be with or without milk, and some may even add a drop of brandy or whisky to it. But bars in towns and cities do a brisk trade every morning, as the Spanish people generally are coffee addicts.

I've been told that here in Madrid, many bars stay profitable mainly due to the morning coffee trade. And it's easy to see why if you look around a typical hostelry at that time. Every few minutes a fresh batch of office or shop workers will come in and order their coffees, often with a snack serving as breakfast. Croissants and Nepolitanas are popular here, as are warm offerings like toast, chunks of tortilla or pork slice rolls. But the famous breakfast snacks in Madrid are churros and porras, not always taken with coffee as the famous combination is "chocolate con churros" popular with all-night clubbers.
It now seems that these essential Spanish hot drinks and snacks are becoming available worldwide - according to this article in Smartplanet, franchises selling these products are spreading worldwide. "Churros seem to be the next cupcake or cronut. Chefs around the world are trying to make them, although there’s often a twist on the basic oily dough, sometimes stuffed with things like with cheddar, green tea, and eggs. "
Meanwhile back in the more humdrum world of the Offside bookshop, we are still feeling the effects of the current cold and wet weather in Madrid (2C this morning with sleety rain outside). This has a definite negative impact on shoppers, so it's just as well we sell online in Spain too, via the omnipotent Amazon. The book which we've sold most of online is the Spanish version of Marcus Zusak's "The Book Thief" (La ladrona de libros), and in fact we are currently out of stock. The best selling book in-store has been Sid Lowe's "Fear and Loathing in La Liga" - we still have copies instore, and offer a great price online for customers throughout Spain. Please support our bookshop by buying this great book.

It's getting windy!

The Atlantic storms have been hitting the north of Spain, as well as other countries like Ireland and the UK. But this blog entry was originally meant to discuss the diet here in winter. Contrary to many articles, there are lots of Spanish dishes that contain vegetables. A lot of them though, are bean based - there are a lot of different varieties, including fabes (used in fabada), alubias, judias verdes etc. And then there are the pulses - garbanzos (chickpeas) and lentejas (lentils) are used in many dishes.

So, it's not hard to maintain a diet containing vegetables here in winter, when perhaps the desire for a salad is lower. However, ahem, one has to bear in mind, that things can get a bit ..err.. windy. :)
Meanwhile, in the bookshop, I'm as busy as ever, despite meagre daily sales in the shop itself. Offside Books now has a marketplace on Amazon for customers throughout Spain. You can see our offerings on Amazon.es. It may seem strange for an independent bookstore to sell via Amazon, but they have really cornered the market. No point spending thousands on setting up an independent website, then thousands more on marketing it, when it's already done by the American giant.
It's not just a case of cataloguing, describing and posting the books on the web - you then have to revisit your offers on a regular basis. Often a competitor will sneak in and try and undercut you - there is one dealer under the name DealES that always comes in with 3 separate offers (I wonder if they actually have certain titles in stock), just below the price you have offered. Of course we will try to offer the best price (for a similar quality book) so we will keep monitoring our books and adjust our price when necessary. Even so, we try and keep the best prices for physical visitors to our shop - if you find this is not so you can always try and haggle a better price!
That is really what our shop is about - we try and offer good quality books at the best price you can find in Madrid and much of Spain. If you live in Spain and value independent bookshops, please try and visit us, either at our physical store (calle Torija 8 Madrid ) or via the Amazon marketplace link. And if you're not looking to buy books - perhaps you actually need to get rid of some to make space - we accept donations gratefully, especially any books in Spanish as our current selection is somewhat limited.

Madrid expats versus Costa expats

Just a quick entry today - I've been busy assembling a new bookcase, which means I now have to reorganise the book displays. It's an interesting job, but more time consuming than you'd think... Anyway, I've noticed on Twitter and on expat talkboards in Spain that apparently it's become a lot harder to receive BBC programmes here in Spain, and that it's causing anxiety for some! However, the Brits (and Irish) I know here in Madrid, haven't mentioned it, and indeed don't appear to watch television outside of sports events broadcast in local bars and pubs. I don't think this is because the expat population here are necessarily more likely to learn Spanish and avoid British television (some may be, others aren't). My theory is that the vast majority of Brits/Irish based here in Madrid came to work, often in the teaching industry. Outside of work there are various distractions (music, sports, eating and drinking, theatre, cinema etc) that mean the need to watch the Beeb is very small. One or two may even pop into my bookstore? On the other hand, a lot of folk on the Costas have gone there to retire, and may be of an age where learning a language is very difficult anyway. They have a lot more free time on their hands and so like to keep up with the goings-on down Albert Square.. Just my theory, and I'd be interested to hear if anyone can come up with a more likely explanation?

Why jobseekers coming to Madrid should not despair.

The last two weeks in the bookshop have been slow, and although we're starting to sell online (another blog entry on this to come) we are certainly not in a position to take on staff. Yet in the last few weeks I've had a couple of direct approaches and in both cases we've probably reached a positive outcome. The first approach, weirdly enough, came from a Swedish guy who was looking for part-time work to tie in with his Spring language course in Madrid. I was/am not in a position to take him on, yet I do know of someone starting an internet venture in English who needs help with basic research and input. So when this Swedish guest turns up we may be able to fix him up - and luckily he's fluent in English. Incidentally, it did seem strange that only a couple of months after launching a bookshop in Madrid, someone in Sweden has even heard about us. Well it turns out he follows Sid Lowe the journalist on twitter - and of course for our launch night we had Sid signing his fantastic book "Fear and Loathing in La Liga".

The next direct approach came from someone locally. I have to admit to being surprised that I've had very few people popping in (virtually no Spanish) asking for work possibilities or even help with cvs, work contacts in the uk etc. However this person did contact me, and although I knew there was no vacancy current, I asked them in for a chat. I'm really glad I did - turns out this person has history in instigating and organising bookstore events, and also gave me great tips on marketing the store - so it looks likely I'll be able to push some freelance business their way fairly soon.
I think the moral to all this is you have to be prepared to push yourself out, and directly approach businesses. If you can bring extra value, possible extra custom to a business, they may well listen carefully. If they don't, try the next enterprise until you succeed. Of course the biggest demand for English speakers in Madrid is in the teaching game, but there are opportunities elsewhere. Ask around, expat entrepreneurs like Pierre Waters who are based here can give great pointers on how to find work. Perhaps the best tips on the subject comes from his article where one of his best pieces of advice is Differentiate yourself – Think about your “competitive advantage” as a foreigner and profesional and target relevant companies and jobs. Read his article very carefully, it's full of great insights like that! I also recommend joining Facebook groups eg "Expats in Madrid", "Guiripreneurs in Madrid", as you can gleam great advice from those already here. And don't be afraid to pop in expat businesses like ours at Offside books, or a local Irish pub, and ask the manager for advice. They may not know any leads currently, but they can give further tips on how to progress the job hunt.
Good luck to all!

Madrid - The 24 hour society

Madrid has been known for many years now as a party town, where bars and discos stay open until 6 or 7 in the morning. Having said that, the majority of bars away from party zones will either close by midnight, or perhaps 2 or 3am at the latest. I'm no longer of an age to keep those hours, but I've stumbled across a couple of things recently that indicate how the tourist/hospitality industry in Madrid manages to earn money at all hours of the day. The first was after a weekend conversation with a local bar-owner, albeit a trendy place rather than the eating establishments. It was 2 in the afternoon, and I ended up being the only customer so I asked him - does your bar attract the evening crowd then? (generally eating places are packed at the weekend) He told me that yes he gets a lot of customers at night, and indeed his particular bar stays open until 7 in the morning at weekends! Apparently it's a common thing for party goers to come to Madrid for the weekend from northern European countries, and spend their time clubbing and bar-hopping. Some even go without booking a hotel room for those 48 hours, so they only need to buy the cheap air ticket. I can only guess at what substances they take to keep going... The second example is at another end of the spectrum. Passing by Plaza de España each day I've noticed you often see a group of Japanese or Chinese tourists taking photographs. We are talking about 30 or 40 people, and I never seem to have seen them going into local bars or shops. It clicked this morning what the score was - I saw them getting on a tourist bus to go to the shopping village at Las Rozas. No doubt they also visit scenic places like Toledo or Segovia, but for that particular set of tourists Madrid is a place to buy premium fashion brands at reduced prices. So my chances of selling English or Spanish language books to them are probably close to zero. :( Talking of timetables, I'm afraid that my bookstore, Offside Books, does not keep extravagant hours. We are normally open from 10.30 to 15.00 and from 17.30 to 20.30 You may notice that the shop closes for the Spanish lunch period. I need this time, not only to get something to eat myself, but also to do some errands away from the shop. So please forgive me if you're in the area but the shop opening times don't fit your schedule!

Today is not a sunny day.

This is the first in my diary "Confessions of an English bookseller in Madrid" so please allow me to get into my stride. I promise in later entries to point out things that perhaps you won't read elsewhere, particularly about starting a bookshop business in Spain. It certainly isn't an easy venture, so I hope to pass on one or two tips that may help others considering starting their own business (and yes, on many days I'd be tempted to shout "don't do it!") I know during the year we have to have some cloudy days, some rain etc. It isn't always sunny in Madrid. But it has to be said that grey cold days are bad news for booksellers - the number of browsers disappears, and I end up heating an empty shop. Still, I've decided to go for a Menu del Dia in a bit - at least there will be part of the day I can enjoy. In the meantime, a quick look at some books we hold in-store (we are at calle Torija 8 Madrid, near Plaza de Santo Domingo).